“The Cradle of the Renaissance Awaits.”
Florence welcomes with fabulous museums, galleries, palaces, and churches that house some of the greatest artistic treasures in the world. On our trip to Italy, Florence is a favorite destination. Visiting in late October and early November, we avoid the crowds and heat of summer. Fall days offer clear skies with comfy temperatures, making it a fantastic time to explore this romantic Renaissance city. A walking city that beckons one to discover some of the most popular and significant sites featuring the Florence Cathedral (the Duomo), the Accademia Gallery, as well as numerous churches, and galleries. Crossing the Arno River opens to the “newest” area of Florence with other places to discover. Taking a ride outside the city rewards with further history and enchanting panoramic views of fantastic Florence.
Trains are easy and convenient transportation in Italy for traveling from historic city to historic city. Boarding the train in Rome, we enjoy a relaxing trip to Santa Maria Novella Train Station in Florence. After a quick check-in at Hotel Rapallo, conveniently located near the train station and the city center, we’re off for lunch and to explore Florence. After a leisurely lunch and, of course, Italian wine, we stroll this Renaissance city’s central piazzas that are pedestrian only zones. The city center is easily walkable from one end to the other in less than 30 minutes.
We stroll to Mercato Centrale, a huge indoor market. Impressive! It’s 3 floors! The market is abuzz with vendors and shoppers. Stall after stall of fresh vegetables, homemade condiments, meats, seafood, homemade pasta, wines, and so much more is readily available. The first and second floor are various vendors of fresh vegetables, meats, etc. While the third floor is an Italian “food court” with an abundance of stalls offering a wide variety of ready-to-eat meals. Outside in the piazzas are numerous vendors selling an eclectic selection of merchandise from hand-woven scarfs to Italian leather goods to clothing. (Note: Mercato Centrale has the downstairs closed on Sunday. Yet, the third floor with its “food court” is jammed! Families are literally packed in for a Sunday lunch and thoroughly enjoying the bustling atmosphere.)
We walk around a corner – directly ahead is the magnificent marble structure of the Florence Cathedral (Basilica di Santa Maria del Fiore – Saint Mary of the Flower), better known as the Duomo. The sight is dramatic of Duomo’s Renaissance dome and adjacent baptistery dominating the central city. No admission fees for Duomo. Inside a student religious organization from the U.S. is offering free tours. The student provides a basic tour of the history and art in the Duomo. Unique in that the Cathedral was funded by officials of Florence, not the church. It is nicknamed the Duomo after the enormous octagonal dome on its east end. Recognized as the birthplace of the Renaissance it took over 170 years to complete utilizing multiple architects. With the massive dome, being the largest built for its time, its construction was an engineering marvel. Filippo Brunelleschi, an Italian architect, is considered to be the founding father of Renaissance architecture. He created and designed new equipment and materials to build the dome. It is actually two domes an interior and exterior. In 1572, the ceiling of the dome is completed with Georio Visari frescoes of the Last Judgment along with Vincenzo Borghini work of themes from Dante’s Divine Comedy.
The exterior of the Duomo is not your typical Italian church. Its polychrome marble panels are in hues of green and pink bordered by white. The Cathedral’s façade is an elaborate 19th-century Gothic Revival by Emilio De Fabris. Ironic! The birthplace of the Renaissance has a medieval face. Externally, the Duomo is a fantastic work of art as it is plastered with many sculptures and frescoes of various sizes. There is so much artwork it is difficult to focus on one piece. There was a major competition between Florence and Siena for the grandest Cathedral. The Duomo’s beauty is outside while inside it is less glorious than most other cathedrals. Visiting the Cathedral in Siena afterward, its spectacular interior makes the Duomo look pretty pedestrian.
The Piazza del Duomo is a large open area around the Cathedral, encompassing the Florence Baptistery, and the Tower. Walking around the Piazza, we stop at the Florence Baptistery, also known as the Baptistery of Saint John, one of the oldest buildings in the city, constructed between 1059 and 1128 in the Florentine Romanesque style. The Baptistery is renowned for its three sets of artistically important bronze doors with relief sculptures. The south doors were created by Andrea Pisano, the north and east doors by Lorenzo Ghiberti. Michelangelo dubbed the east doors the Gates of Paradise. Numerous restaurants and eateries border the Piazza. The Piazza is busy yet welcoming for a stroll or to stop for a bite to eat or afternoon libation while taking in the beauty of the Duomo, the Baptistery and the Tower.
After a train from Rome and a full afternoon of sightseeing, it’s a respite before dinner. A short walk is Fuoco Matta, a highly recommended restaurant on TripAdvisor. We are a bit naïve arriving without reservations. Plus, Italians dinners begin the earliest at 7:00PM. Luckily, we are seated for a thoroughly enjoyable Italian dining experience. Fuoco Matta is a happening place offering great music, delicious food and drinks. Our dinner starts with complimentary sparkling wine and ends with shots of Limoncello, Italy’s favorite liqueur. As we compliment the owner and pay the bill, it’s more Limoncello.
On a beautiful clear autumn morning, we meet at the San Marco Piazza for the Dark City Best of Florence Tour. With enthusiasm and a passion for Florence, our guide (Vanessa), provides a remarkable 3-hour walking tour and everyone has a headset. The tour is a wonderful introduction to the key sights in Florence and its history. At the Accademia Gallery, most famous for its sculptures by the great Renaissance artist, Michelangelo, our education begins on its paintings and sculptures. Prior to seeing Michelangelo’s Statue of David, we view other works of Michelangelo to learn his style and better understand it. Weaving the story of how Michelangelo came to carve the statue is intriguing. A block of marble from a quarry in Carrara, Italy had two different artists attempt to carve out a statue over a ten year period. Left unfinished the block of marble is neglected for 26 years. Then Michelangelo, at 26 years of age, convinces the Commission and receives the official contract to undertake the challenging task of turning this huge chunk of marble into a statue of David. Michelangelo worked over two years on this statue that stands 13’5” tall. It’s as if David just took a deep breath. We note the details in his muscles and veins, as he patiently awaits battle, prepped with a slingshot in the left hand and a the stone right hand, The intricacy Michelangelo has in the physique of his statues is stunning. Viewing the Statue from each angle, we admire this truly glorious work of art.
As the tour continues, we learn about the famous Medici family, their prosperity and significant influence on Florence. Their dynasty began with the founding of the Medici Bank, the largest and most respected bank in Europe in its prime. The Medici family was the wealthiest family in Europe that included ownership of art, land, and gold. The family had influence and political power over Florence then later Italy and Europe. Most any place or site in Florence was influenced by the Medici family. Walking on to the Duomo with the tour, we gain even further insight into this amazing Cathedral with is massive dome, the Baptistery and the Tower. A stairway of 463 steps leads to an exterior viewing platform around the cupola providing scenic views of Florence. (It’s on my bucket list!) The tour continues to the Arno River that basically bisects Old Florence from New Florence. Here is the Ponte Vecchio (Old Bridge), a medieval stone closed-spandrel segmental arch bridge over the Arno River. Initially it housed shops of butchers, tanners, and farmers. Today’s tenants are jewelers, art dealers, and souvenir sellers. The tour winds through Florence, finishing at the Uffizi Gallery. The Uffizi is one of the most important Italian museums boasting as one of the largest and best known galleries in the world. Notably it holds the collection of priceless works, especially from the Italian Renaissance. Again, the Medici family is the major influence, as after the last ruling house of Medici dies out, their art collections were gifted to the city of Florence.
After the tour, we walk over the Ponte Vecchio Bridge with its tourist shops and jewelers see New Florence. Next is a savory outdoor lunch and we strolling through the Piazzas stopping in a church and seeing various shops. Having a pass for City Sightseeing, a Hop-on, Hop-off Bus, we a locate bus stop close by. After reviewing the map and looking at the schedule, we hop-on the Line A- Blue Route bus for an enjoyable ride through New Florence and the scenic hillside across the river Arno. From the upper open deck we have fantastic views of Florence and this beautiful area, while the audio (headsets with 8 languages) educates on various sights on the route. The bus ride is relaxing, informative, and very scenic. Returning to Old Florence, we exit at the Train Station, walking through the city toward our hotel.
Passing the Duomo, Richard and I discuss climbing the 463 stairs to the top. I’ll go while Richard relaxes at the hotel. Quickly, I buy a ticket and get in line. It is very slow as a limited number of people enter at time. Finally, I’m in a stairwell that spirals upward. It is 463 steps yet not overwhelming. Some areas are winding stairwells that open to larger flat areas. Then the stairs exit on the upper balconies providing closer views of the frescoes of The Last Judgement. These are bizarre figures. The stairs continue through attics then to a mild incline. The final section is narrow with a steep ladder, straight up. The exit is a small door opening on to the viewing platform. Spectacular! The panoramic views are extraordinary! Taking quick photos, I begin the easier and quicker descent. Exiting at a different area, I get my bearings to locate the street to our hotel. I’ve been gone much longer than expected. I know Richard is concerned. Walking around the Duomo, I hear music, it sounds like a band. On the front steps of Duomo, a man with a microphone is yelling to a large crowd in the Piazza. It’s a protest! Police cars block all streets! Uniformed officers in riot gear with automatic rifles are stationed on each street entering the piazza. I quickly walk to a street to exit the piazza. Not sure what the protest is about as I just want get to the hotel. Needless to say Richard is very worried since I was gone so long and I am glad to be back safe. Our new rule: We do sightseeing TOGETHER!
Following the afternoon excitement, we have a wonderful dining experience at a restaurant close to our hotel. Another example of the fabulous restaurants of Florence. Superb! Each dish of Tuscan cuisine is excellent! Sharing a bottle of wine, we toast an exciting day in Florence and a happy ending.
Beautiful blue skies greet us on this Sunday morning. After 10:30 Mass at Chiesa di San Giovannino dei Cavalieri nearby, it’s a quick lunch and determining sights to see for the afternoon. Many places are not open on Sunday or have limited hours. Best choice is the City Sightseeing, Hop-on, Hop-off bus, allowing us to ride through areas on the outskirts of Florence. Primary destination is the Piazzale Michelango. The Piazzale is a broad expanse with stone slabs, tourists, and street vendors. Under clear blue skies, it offers a stunning panorama of Florence showing the full magnificent beauty of the city. Along the far bank of the river, ochre-colored buildings mark the edge of old Florence and a jumble or red-tiled roofs extend beyond. In the middle the majestic Duomo and the famous bell tower stand tall. The cupola of the Duomo, its red terracotta roof is divided by white stone ribbing into segments like an orange. Further over is the elegant fortified tower of the Palazzo Vecchio that houses the Uffizi Gallery. Spires of other churches push up around the roofs. The sky line view of Florence is unique, astounding and enchanting. Hopping on a Bus, the bus tour continues and we hop-off at the at the Boboli Gardens. Noted as one of the greatest open-air museums in Florence that is near the Pitti Palace, a vast Renaissance palace in Florence. A visit to the Boboli Gardens is not to be. The schedule says it should be open, it is not. What to do now? Have a drink! Afterwards it’s a casual stroll through the city, taking in the many sites and reminiscing about all the great sights we did see on this short visit.
Florence is a favorite destination on our trip to Italy. We truly wish we spent more time in Florence. Funny, others told us to spend less time in Florence and more in Venice. We thoroughly fell in “love” with Florence – the town, its history, its people, its restaurants, and its beauty. A place we would gladly return to and further explore. Florence has ambiance and welcoming atmosphere. Visiting outside the “high tourist season” allowed for a much better visit to a Renaissance city.
Follow our road trip and adventures as we travel to through Italy from Rome to Florence to Tuscany to Siena to Venice.
If you go:
Hotel Rapallo –we located the hotel using TripAdvisor and were extremely pleased. The hotel is very clean, cozy and so welcoming. Our room was on the 4th floor (404) was a long narrow room with a twin bed at each end of the room. French doors opened onto a huge balcony with some good views of the city. The Hotel is very convenient for walking around Florence but still a few blocks from the busiest tourist areas. It is adjacent to Independence Park making it easy to find on a map, a good landmark. It is also only a few blocks from the train station. The hotel staff is excellent. They suggest and make dinner reservations for us. The breakfast had a good combination of pastries, hot, and cold breakfast items. We readily recommend this boutique hotel for visitors to Florence. Good location, Great Service, and clean cozy setting.
Travel Tips:
• For the train from Rome to Florence – we went by the Rome Train Station the day before to be sure we knew the details for locating which track the train would arrive on, understood signage, as well, as ability to get our luggage on easily. Even knew where the bathrooms were located. This made it much simpler for catching the train the next day.
• Tripadvisor is very helpful for locating a hotel in Florence. Using the reviews we were thrilled with the hotel and restaurants.
• Dark City Best of Florence Tour: It is excellent for learning about the city
• City Sightseeing, Hop-on, Hop-off bus: Allowed us to get to other areas of Florence without needing a car. Additionally, the audio guide on the bus in various languages provided very good information. There are two different lines providing an excellent tour in and outside of Florence. Passes are from 24 hrs. to 72 hrs.
• Visit off-season: We highly recommend traveling in at least the shoulder of seasons to avoid the crowds. Numerous friends had visited in the summer (a high tourist season). It was hot and so “jammed” with tourist it was difficult to just walk around.
• Plan the visit and amount of time: An extra day would have offered the ability to see some sights we missed. Especially the Uffizy Gallery – which needed a half-day and didn’t fit in our schedule. Sunday some attractions are closed so consider this when planning a visit to Florence.