A Stroll through Downtown Charleston’s Past and Present.
Charleston’s rich history attracts tourists with its many sights to see, visit, and experience. From grand historic homes to magnificent plantations to the excitement of walking through the many ships at Patriots Point to visiting historical forts to taking a tour or just strolling its city streets, Charleston offers something for everyone. First timers are usually busy planning a variety of activities to capture the essence of Charleston. While frequent visitors delight just roaming the scenic streets of the Charleston.
Actually, this visit to Charleston is a result of the possible Corona Virus Pandemic. We are planning to visit family in North Carolina and then spend a week sightseeing in Washington, DC. It is March 2020 and prior to leaving Florida rumors are afoot of the Corona Virus’ impact in Europe and possibly affecting United States. Quickly, we cancel the Washington trip, opting instead for a few days in Charleston, South Carolina. We are seeking a relaxing leisurely getaway.
STROLLING AND SIGHTSEEING CHARLESTON
A favorite pastime in Charleston is wandering the streets and touring a few sites. We start the day with a refreshing morning walk along the side streets in the area known as South of Broad. Here are the numerous upscale and refurbished homes for which Charleston is known. Each home has its own style and flair.
Today it’s window boxes! With early spring, houses have window boxes full of beautiful flowers. I quickly snap pics of these enchanting window-box scenes. Walking toward the end of the peninsula were the Ashley and Cooper Rivers merge, we see beautiful flowers in White Point Gardens. Crossing the street to the Battery, we delight in the panoramic views of across the rivers. Then strolling along East Bay we admire the colorful homes of Rainbow Row and Charleston’s scenic Waterfront Park. Here we find welcoming benches, fountains and expansive views over the Cooper River.
A walk along Market Street takes us to the City Market. Abuzz with vendors and shoppers, we roam the historical City Market checking out the plethora of special and unusual items. With upcoming events for our grandchildren, we find intriguing Puzzle Boxes for each of them at Puzzle Box Guy. Then I locate a well-designed leather shoulder purse for my new iPhone. Our walk takes us along King Street where we peruse the many local Charleston only shops, as well as, well-known national retailers.
The Calhoun Mansion
In the afternoon, we are off to tour the Calhoun Mansion, the largest single family residence in Charleston. As we begin our tour, I sense I toured the Mansion years ago. Our guide shares the fascinating history of the Calhoun Mansion. The story starts with George Walton Williams, a noted businessman and humanitarian. He amassed a great fortune and decided to build a grand residence on Meeting Street to show Charleston’s re-emergence from the Civil War. Mr. Williams spared no expense in the design of his “elegant Victorian mansion” that is 24,000 square feet with 35 rooms. It has 14 foot ceilings, ornate plaster and wood mouldings, and a stairwell that reaches to a 75’ domed ceiling. The elaborate chandeliers were designed and installed by famous Louis Comfort Tiffany. The Calhoun Mansion is Charleston’s “Gilded Age Mansion.”
Sadly, the house fell in disrepair through the 20th century. Then in 1976 a Charleston attorney and his wife, buy the Mansion undertaking its restoration over a 25 year period. Later the house is sold at auction to a lawyer and preservationist. Today the house is still a private residence and displays the owner’s extensive collection of artifacts from the Gilded Age. The Mansion is jammed with the owner’s massive collection. The Mansion is impressive, yet, the current owner’s collection is a bit overwhelming.
On our return home, I find the card of the Calhoun Mansion when I toured it in the late 1970’s The card states that The Calhoun Mansion was purchased and being refurbished by Mr. & Mrs. Gedney M. Howe, III. On that visit the Mansion is in the very early stages of restoration allowing visitors to better appreciate its architectural details. Plus, I actually met the owner, Mrs. Howe, as she was working on re-gilding a mirror. Fun recalling my first visit to Charleston’s magnificent Calhoun Mansion.
The Charleston Museum
Looking to see more history of Charleston, we are off to the Charleston Museum. The Museum is located across the street from the Charleston Visitor Center (which is currently in a temporary building with the new Center under construction.) At the Museum we have choices of purchasing a Museum Pass only or passes which include the Museum and one or two historic house tours. We opt for the Museum Pass and one house tour. Afterwards, we realize it is better to get the package with the Museum and the 2 historic houses of the Heyward-Washington House and the Joseph Manigault House.
The museum provides a self-guided tour of several permanent exhibits. We begin with the Low Country History Hall that provides insight into the Native Americans who initially inhabited the Lowcountry. Here we learn of the colonists and how the rice plantations create a huge boom for the Charleston area. Excellent videos give an understanding of life in the Lowcountry. The exhibit explains the impact of how the enslaved African Americans, with their knowledge of rice growing, actually transforms the region into an agricultural empire. Excellent details on the work and lives of growing rice, running a plantation, and life in those times is explained. In the Becoming Americans exhibit we gain an understanding of Charleston’s role in the American Revolution for independence. We stroll the Exhibits of the Armory, then get in-depth in the Civil War from Charleston’s secession to the continuous siege of the city, and its lasting impact at the City Under Siege Exhibit. The Bunting National History Gallery is the story of the Lowcountry natural history. The museum also has an area of collections from around the world, as well as, a very good Kids area. The Museum is insightful, educational, and gives us more intriguing facts of this fascinating city.
Joseph Manigault House
With the one house ticket and the Joseph Manigault House across the street from the Museum we opt to tour it. Tours are on the hour and half hour and we arrive just a tour begins. Our guide is passionate about the Manigault house and its history, giving a very informative and educational tour of the house and the family. Designed by gentleman architect Gabriel Manigault for his brother, Joseph Manigault, the house is a three-story brick town-house built in 1803. It is an exceptional example of the Federal, architecture style. The Manigault’s descended from French Huguenots who came to America to escape persecution in Europe. As one of Charleston’s most exquisite antebellum structures the Manigault House reflects the urban lifestyle of a wealthy rice-planting family. With concern over the house’s demolition, it was purchased in 1933 by the Charleston Museum. Notable interior design features are its symmetry, a spiral cantilever staircase, use of high ceilings, and second story rooms. Entertaining was done on the second story rooms to take advantage of cooler temperatures and breezes. The rooms have been recently repainted to reflect their original color. Very good tour.
DINING IN CHARLESTON
As with many cities, dining is part of the tradition and culture. With Charleston’s location on a peninsula formed by the Ashley and Cooper Rivers, close to the Atlantic, and in the South Carolina Low Country, it offers a variety of restaurants from fancy to laid-back. It’s exciting to return to a favorite eatery or try a new venue for breakfast, lunch or dinner. Reservations are a must for many restaurants in Charleston. While we attempt to make reservations at a few restaurants, the few open seatings are after 8:00PM. Luckily, we find new exciting dining venues. Below is a recap of our dining experiences on this visit to Charleston.
Hyman’s Seafood – Great Seafood
For us lunch is best at Hyman’s Seafood. On prior visits, when we pass by Hyman’s at dinnertime the line is very long. Located on Meeting Street near the City Market, it is a famous eatery that provides a unique dining experience. As we enter, we are immediately directed to go upstairs to table 32. There are no numbers on the table. A waiter efficiently walks by pointing out Table 32. Hyman’s offers a very extensive menu that can be a bit confusing. Our waiter easily recommends sharing a meal that has all the specialty items we wish to sample. We delight in the huge bowl of hearty She Crab soup, tangy Cole slaw, yummy salmon croquettes, a savory sweet potato soufflé, and scrumptious shrimp & grits. It is delicious! To exit the restaurant, we walk through various dining rooms to another staircase that takes us downstairs, finally exiting through the Gift Shop. Umm, neat – a marketing ploy to bring business to Hyman’s Gift Shop.
Fleet Landing- Good Food and Water Views
Initially, we plan to dine at Fleet Landing for dinner to enjoy the scenic water views. No reservations are available even on a Monday evening in March. So we go for lunch. With its location at 186 Concord Street at the foot of the City Market it is very convenient. The owner’s goal when opening Fleet Landing was to have “a quintessential Lowcountry seafood restaurant with an unparalleled view of the Charleston Harbor.” Fleet Landing lives up to this goal with its harbor views. It is a very large casual restaurant with indoor and outdoor dining options. Sitting outdoors we have scenic views Charleston Harbor. Our hearty and tasty lunches are Lowcountry specials of a Shrimp Cake with Broccoli Casserole & Red Rice and the Trout with Butter Beans & Red Rice.
Eleve – a Scenic Rooftop Bar
Walking down King Street, we happen on to Eleve, a rooftop bar at the Grand Bohemian. Having enjoyed cocktails at the Grand Bohemian in Savannah, it’s time to check out a Charleston rooftop bar. Eleve offers views of Charleston as the sun slowly sets. It is a welcoming décor and ambiance with huge planters filled blooming flowers, couches, chairs, and tables. A peaceful and relaxing setting as we sip our cocktails while watching the brilliant orange and reds of a sunset over Charleston.
167 RAW – Upscale New Location on King Street
We had been to 167 Raw before in Charleston, which consistently had a waiting line in their small venue. On an afternoon window shopping on King Street we decide to partake in afternoon drink. We pop in and take a seat at the bar. Wow! Now we realize this is 167 Raw in its new King Street location. A huge change from the small crowded restaurant we visited previously. We chat with other couples at the bar as we enjoy our afternoon libations. Next time we will make reservations to have dinner at 167 Raw. It is known for its awesome oysters and a new varied menu. Looks like a great move for them.
Blossom – Delicious Dining
Without reservations, we are lucky to get in for dinner at Blossom. Located on historic East Bay Street in downtown Charleston, Blossom serves American cuisine highlighting the Lowcountry’s best seafood. The restaurant has indoor and outdoor seating and offers an eclectic menu. I am thrilled with my Carolina Mountain Trout with Tabasco beurre blanc with sides of crawfish & field pea succotash. For Richard it’s the hearty BBQ Beef Short Ribs with the grilled cornbread, collard greens, and apple slaw.
Burwell’s Stone Fire Grill – A Hidden Gem
Having no luck with getting reservations, we take our chances walking by the City Market. Hurrah! Burwell’s Stone Fire Grill easily has us seated in this upscale restaurant. Since our lunch at Fleetwood Landing was very filling, we opt for a tapas type dinner of fresh raw oysters and shrimp. Burwell’s menu offers an excellent selection of dishes. Today, Burwell’s is our “Hidden Gem.” It has great ambiance and a tantalizing menu. We will definitely return for dinner in the future.
Hank’s Seafood Restaurant – Terrific Pecan Pie
We are in Charleston and we are “craving” a slice of good ol’ Southern Pecan Pie. Our Google search gives Hank’s Seafood Restaurant as having one of the best Pecan Pies in Charleston. As we walk in Hank’s it is packed. Just in time, a couple leaves and we quickly take the two open seats at the bar. Yes, we give Hank’s Pecan Pie ala mode a “thumbs up!” The Pecan Pie Ala Mode is served hot enhancing its tantalizing flavors. Hank’s is impressive we will keep it on our list for future dining venue. It is just off the beaten bath and seems to be a Hidden Gem.
ACCOMMODATION OPTIONS
Charleston has a wide variety of accommodations. For any visit where we wish to primarily visit and tour downtown, it is a must to stay in the downtown area. A few recommendations for selecting a downtown hotel, Inn, or B&B are:
- Location: We prefer being close to the City Market which is central location in Charleston. This makes walks to the Battery/White Point Gardens about a mile and walks to the Visitor Center and Charleston Museum about a mile.
- Parking: As with any city parking can be a challenge in Charleston. Be sure to know the parking fee and location of the parking lot for any accommodation.
- Complimentary Breakfast provided: Many Inn’s and Bed & Breakfasts provide complimentary breakfast while the more traditional hotel chains do not.
Some favorite places we enjoy for their ambiance, location, parking, and complimentary breakfast are the Charming Inns of Charleston’s the Fulton Lane Inn and the John Rutledge House. These Bed & Breakfast have significant history in Charleston, are beautifully decorated in southern style, and have the convenience of adjacent parking lots. The Fulton Lane in is just a block from the City Market making it a great location. It also has a sister hotel, King Courtyard Inn, just around the corner making it another good choice. While the Rutledge House is a few blocks to central Charleston it is still convenient and steeped with history as the former residence of the former President (no governors then) of Charleston. Our current stay is at The Mill House Wydham Grand Hotel. A huge hotel in a central location it has the great location in central downtown Charleston, a parking garage behind it, and spacious rooms making it a very good choice.
On one visit we did not make prior reservations and instead stopped by the Visitor Center. The Center has a desk for “today check-in accommodations” offering special rates. Immediately, we are given a special rate for the Meeting Street Inn, located at the corner of Meeting Street and Market Street, an excellent central location. While the “today check-in rate” is for one night, we are able to get a good rate for our second night, making this a win-win. The Meeting Street Inn is nice but a bit dated. It has period décor for the rooms, complimentary breakfast, complimentary wine & cheese and best of all is its location. The parking is a few blocks away.
Charleston is a city that intrigues visitors with its history and overall ambiance. For us it is a city we will continue to return to periodically to experience its charm, learn more of its history and delight in the enchantment of “Charleston!”